Gastronome

M NIGHTCLUB
500 ala moana blvd.
Honolulu
Phone number(808) 529-0010
website mnlhnl.com

A couple of weeks ago, my boyfriend was watching [insert name of any dumb TV show here], so I resorted to looking at my phone. When I opened Insta-gram, I saw that my coworker had posted a picture of a wasabi Bastardino, a character from Japanese-inspired brand tokidoki.

After some quick social media stalking, I discovered that Jon Tamashiro, the artist in question, is a chef at M Nightclub — and that his talents extend far beyond the one image I saw. Scrolling through his Instagram, I saw Hello Kitty, Snoopy, Pikachu — it looked like he was capable of just about anything.

So one afternoon last week, I made my way down to M and sat in anticipation.

First, he and fellow chef Nick Pugay brought out other items available to order — ‘cause, you know, you can’t eat a huge mound of wasabi, no matter how cute it is. These included a number of sashimi options, which are customizable and change based on availability (prices change accordingly).

They also served a couple of non-sashimi dishes that were pleasantly surprising. For a kitchen that doubles as a nightclub, I wasn’t sure what to expect. And yet, in the Tuna and Avocado Tower and Grilled Opah, I found a balance of subtle and intricate flavors and textures.

In salads, fish often gets lost in overpowering dressings and other accompaniments. But the ginger-based vinaigrette in the Tower complimented the flavors of fresh ahi and also made the entire dish refreshing. Then there was the Opah, with subtle flavors enhanced with the addition of bok choy, carrots, onions and sprouts for added texture and color.

Everything about these dishes was just the right interruption to the holiday glut-tony that has wreaked havoc on my body.

Still, I couldn’t let this distract from my main goal: to get a firsthand look at Tamashiro’s wasabi creations.

So when he finally brought out the Sashimi Mori, and I saw Hello Kitty and Bastardino in wasabi form, I couldn’t have been more pleased.

It’s a skill Tamashiro began teaching himself about a year ago, and it has become extremely popular with customers. To create each one, he simply looks at a picture.

“I still have a whole list of things I have to do,” he says with a laugh.

These include Olaf from Frozen and Oscar the Grouch, plus my added request that he attempt to make my corgi, Hibachi, into wasabi form.

Follow Tamashiro on Instagram @meestaaroha to see more of his creations and to make requests, or stop in Tuesday-Saturday at M to check it out in person.